The converter is the device that takes shore power (120V) and makes 12V. Or you can leave the converter on and lift the negative cable from your batteries to isolate the converter as the cause. If the voltage is fluctuating, next isolate the source by shutting off the converter to use battery power only and if the flickering stops & voltage fluctuation stops, it must be from your converter. Does it happen to all of the lights, or might it be only on those connected via the same switch? I'd not just check battery voltage but also at the light switch and at the fixtures. If it happens to more than one light, that would seem to indicate that the problem isn't in the light fixtures. Have you monitored the voltage to see if it is changing? If not that is what I'd look at first. Since your lights operate from 12V-dc power the shore power should have no impact on this. I have led lights and no they don't flicker the same or all the time. Do I have a bad electrical box? I have brand new batteries and I have checked the connections and they are tight. They have not done this before at any other spot. I have just moved to a new location and my inside lights have started flickering. That'll be no fun to track down so let's hope it's just in your battery to panel or fuse connections. it could be a condensation issue or a loose connection in your fixture wiring. Hopefully inspecting and reseating your 12v fuses and checking the battery to panel wire connections should resolve your problem. Most likely in the layers between your ceiling and roof.Īre your LED's LED fixtures or add in strip type that have been wired into your incandescent fixtures? From there I would double check the 12v connections coming off your batteries and the connections into your power distribution panel.ĭepending on where you are and what the temps are like, you may also be having an intermittent condensation issue either in your panel or fixture wiring. Inspect them for any buildup on the blades then reinsert. Try pulling your 12v lighting fuses one by one. More likely you've got a loose neutral from your batteries to your power distribution panel or a 12v fuse not properly seated. I doesn't need to be fancy, but something you should have on board any way. Preferably digital and can be had from something around $10-$20 at Walmart or Harbor freight. Just something I have seen done (once) that might help you achieve what you are looking for.If you don't already have a permanent batter meter installed then just any ol voltmeter will work. If you go this route make sure to study up on landscape light wiring methods, just going daisy-chain for a bunch of lights probably won't work all that well in this application.Īlmost certainly not warranty-friendly, not orthodox, don't blame me if it doesn't work right or the transformer dies after a week. Just a transformer and circuit breaker in a box. Just make sure there is no built in timer, screen, electronics, etc. I'd say a professional grade transformer (Kichler, basic FX, etc) is the better choice. As I described to that user, your best bet would be to find a transformer without a built in timer that has a chance of being dimmed, and getting non-integrated-LED fixtures that you install your own dimmable LED bulbs in. If you are really interested in dimming your deck lights, I wouldn't go with those Trex deck lights (I wouldn't go with Trex lights anyway, they are good at composite decks not lights). Someone else asked about dimming landscape lighting which is similar to what you are talking about. Regardless, Lutron does not offer any kind of low-voltage dimming devices. Deck/landscape lighting is generally 12-15V AC, not DC as DC would have way too much voltage drop.
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